There is a common misconception that if you live in Colorado you spend every free minute in the mountains - that winters are for skiing and summers are for camping and hiking. That all who live here flee to the woods for solace and restoration. Driving west on I-70 a couple weeks ago I was reminded that this image of all Coloradans is not totally true; my hand gripping the handle above my door as we flew through windy mountain roads, slightly nauseous and reminding myself how ridiculous it is to feel so much anxiety about something that is intended to be the deepest form of relaxation. I try to enjoy the views, to appreciate the spontaneous waterfalls making their way down the rocks lining the road but I have to admit that the mountains are not for everyone, that I have to go through a lot of pep-talking and mental reassurance to get to the point of appreciation. In the end, it's I rarely regret it.
After choosing a comedically bad campground in Redstone for our Father's Day trip, we were lucky enough to find a very out of the way spot in the Avalanche Campground, along Avalanche Creek which feeds into the Crystal River. About 25 miles south of Carbondale, CO, this part of the state is often overlooked by those on their way to the flashier locations of Vail and Aspen. Glenwood Springs boasts a very large hot springs pool and for years, we were devoted swimmers, shrugging off the crowds and the high price of admission because a night of floating under the stars, the faint scent of sulphur wafting in, was always worth it. Then a few years ago we took a trip to Avalanche Ranch, a good hour or so out of Glenwood and were instantly hooked. The pools are small but the property, run by the family who lives on the ranch, keeps a tight rein on the number of guests that are allowed to come each day in addition to the on-site guests. Cabins, adorable covered wagons, apple orchards, plum trees heavy with fruit, baby lambs each spring and summer and an on-site pond stocked with huge (and battle tested trout) and canoes and paddle boats make it the kind of place you can go for a stay and never leave the property.
Watching the boys unpack gear and jump into setting up the tent, I realized that sometimes, giving someone their happy place can be nearly as satisfying as visiting my own. No waves crashing, no hours spent strolling on the beach or finding treasures in the sand but still, we spent a few relaxing days racing bikes, visiting the hot springs and hiking on some of the great trails you can access through the campground.
If you're out that way, the historic town of Marble is an incredible site to behold; the closer you get the more you'll notice massive chunks of marble plunked down in the river (when the water is low). Even the most humble trailer home in Marble will often boast a couple sculpted marble statues in their yard. We'd only been at an off time but a friend told us about the best barbecue place, Slow Groovin' BBQ. Insane! All local meats, everything done on-site with a selection of their own house label sauces (all delicious but I'm a die-hard tangy fan).
I'm not sure if it's a pro or a con but once you hit a certain point on Highway 133 you can kiss all cell coverage goodbye. The town of Redstone has zero interest in adding cell towers and whatever you do, don't ask the staff at the general store about it! Trust me, even the most nonchalant questioning will get a very terse response. A great chance to unplug and expedite the relaxation process but as we headed home I couldn't help but groan at the sudden pings and alerts that filled the car. Just another reason to plan our next trip.
If you go:
Carbondale, CO
Bonfire Coffee has an excellent menu and makes an exceptional cup of coffee.
Dandelion Market is the local food co-op with a good selection and very finicky hours.
The Goat Restaurant and Bar - I cannot sing the praises of their staff and service enough. My favorite combo, a good steak salad and fries, is not to be missed here.
Village Smithy is the local's place for a huge breakfast selection. A great cabin/diner feel, it's worth the wait.
Rhumba Girl Liquors - make sure to stop into this town favorite before you hop on 133.
Avalanche Ranch - formerly a well-kept secret, those days are long gone. Book very far in advance, even for a pool visit. For off-site swimmers, times are 9-1 or 1-5. We are partial to Cabin 1 for a family (right next to the pools, good light) but don't be afraid to try one of the houses in Redstone they consider part of the property. A different experience but a good one.
Marble, CO
Slow Groovin' BBQ - be daring or just go with the standard platters but don't miss out on some of the appetizers. The twisted potatoes will have you fighting over the basket.
Crystal, CO
I've not been but I've heard the 4 wheel drive road in is so worth it. The view will instantly be familiar to those who've seen their share of postcard racks.
Avalanche Campground - clean bathrooms but no water, these are advertised as tent sites only, however, we did have a neighbor that made it in just fine with their trailer. Of course, if you get stuck, you're that dummy. A decent amount of traffic through the campground as hikers come through for the remote trails, but it dies off early and everyone we encountered was quiet and friendly (except for the neighbor who bore a shocking resemblance to a young Charles Manson).
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